Izmir: From Historic Ruins to Vibrant City Life

Izmir is a metropolitan city on the western coast of Anatolia and the capital of the eponymous province. It is the third largest city in Turkey after Istanbul and Ankara, and the largest urban agglomeration on the Aegean coast. Izmir has over 3000 years of recorded urban history, but the area has been inhabited for 8500 years since the Neolithic. In classical antiquity, the city was known as Smyrna (Greek: Σμύρνη, Smýrni/Smýrnē) – a name that remained in use in English and various other languages until 1930, when government efforts led to the gradual replacement of the original Greek name with its Turkish counterpart İzmir. Izmir is situated advantageously at the end of a gulf that stretches into a deep indentation, in the middle of the western Anatolian coast. For most of its history, Izmir has been one of the major trading cities of the Mediterranean.

Where Izmir is Located and How to Get There

Izmir is located at the northwestern tip of Turkey, about 560 km southwest of Ankara and 330 km southwest of Istanbul. The city is surrounded by mountains to the north and south and opens to the Aegean Sea to the west. The İzmir Gulf is approximately 40 km long and 10-20 km wide.

The best way to get to Izmir is by air. The city has an international airport, Adnan Menderes Airport (IATA code: ADB), which is about 18 km south of the city center. The airport has regular connections to many domestic and international destinations, including Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. From the airport, you can reach the city center by train, metro, bus, or taxi.

Another option is to travel to Izmir by train or bus. Turkey has an extensive network of railways and long-distance buses that connect Izmir with other major cities and smaller towns in the country. İzmir Basmane Train Station is the main station in the city and is located in the Konak district. İzmir Otogarı Bus Station is about 10 km northeast of the city center and is well connected to the center by metro and buses.

Izmir is also a port city, with ferries and boat lines arriving from some of the Aegean islands, such as Chios, Lesbos, and Samos, and from some mainland ports, such as Çeşme, Kuşadası, and Bodrum. İzmir Alsancak Port is the main port in the city and is located near the Konak district center. İzmir Karşıyaka Port is a smaller port on the northern side of the gulf, serving mainly ferries between Karşıyaka and Konak.

The best time to visit Izmir is in spring or autumn, when the weather is mild and sunny, but not too hot or humid. The average air temperature in April and May is around 20°C, while in October and November it is around 18°C. The average sea temperature during these periods is around 17-19°C. Summer is also a popular time to visit Izmir, but temperatures can rise above 30°C and the humidity can be uncomfortable. The average air temperature in July and August is around 28°C, while the average sea temperature is around 24-25°C. Winter is cool and rainy, with an average air temperature around 10°C and an average sea temperature around 15°C.

History of Izmir

Izmir has a rich and long history that dates back to the Neolithic. The earliest signs of human settlement were found on the Yeşilova mound in the Bornova district, where a village dating back to 6500 BC was discovered. Another important archaeological site is the Yassıtepe mound in the Bayraklı district, where the remains of ancient Smyrna from the 11th-7th centuries BC were uncovered, which was one of the twelve Ionian cities on the Anatolian coast of the Aegean Sea. Smyrna was a thriving commercial center with contacts with Greeks, Phoenicians, Assyrians, Persians, and other civilizations.

Smyrna was gradually influenced by various powers in the region, such as the Lydians, Persians, Macedonians under Alexander the Great, Seleucids under Antiochus III, Attalids under Attalus III, Romans under Pompey the Great, and Byzantines under Constantine the Great. In 178 BC, Attalus III, king of Pergamum, bequeathed his kingdom, including Smyrna, to the Romans as a gift after his death. Under Roman rule, Smyrna experienced a period of prosperity as one of the main cultural centers of the province of Asia (modern-day western Turkey). Impressive structures were built, such as the agora (marketplace), odeon (theater), stadium (sports venue), aqueduct (water supply system), and the temple of the goddess Roma (personification of Rome). Smyrna was also the birthplace of famous personalities such as the poet Homer (8th-7th centuries BC), the philosopher Aristides (2nd century AD), and the physician Galen (2nd-3rd centuries AD). Smyrna was one of the first centers of Christianity and was among the seven revelations in the Book of Revelation.

Smyrna was the capital of the naval theme (province) of Samos under Byzantine emperors and was conquered by the Turkmen principality of Aydın in the early 14th century AD. After being successively conquered by Crusaders sponsored by Pope Clement VI and the Central Asian conqueror Timur (Tamerlane), it was annexed to the Ottoman Empire around 1425. Although severely damaged by earthquakes in 1688 and 1778, it remained a prosperous Ottoman port with a large European population. Izmir was occupied by Greek forces in May 1919 and recaptured by Turkish forces under Mustafa Kemal (later Kemal Atatürk) on September 9, 1922. The fighting for Izmir is associated with violence, chaos, and atrocities, and debates continue to this day about whether the Greek or Turkish soldiers were worse, but the fact remains that Izmir was devastated by fierce fighting.

After the Turkish War of Independence, Izmir became part of the Republic of Turkey and began to rapidly develop as a modern city and industrial center. In 1971, it hosted the Mediterranean Games and in 2005 the World University Games. The city also participated in Climathon in 2019. Today, Izmir is one of Turkey's most dynamic and cosmopolitan cities, with a rich culture, commerce, and tourism.

Konak: The Historical District of Izmir

Konak is one of the eleven main urban districts of Izmir and is the most densely populated of them. It is also the historical and economic heart of the city, home to many important landmarks, institutions, and commercial centers. Konak lies on the southern coast of the İzmir Gulf and extends from the eastern edge of the city to the western suburbs of Göztepe. Konak has an area of 69.4 km² and in 2012 had a population of 390,682.

Konak was originally the name for the historical district of Izmir, as well as for its key central square (Konak Square - Konak Meydanı). The name comes from the Ottoman word for the governor's palace (konak), which is located on the square and served as the residence of Ottoman rulers of Izmir. In 1987, the former central district of Izmir was renamed Konak (except for its former dependency Buca, which became a separate district), and the name İzmir has since been used for the entire metropolitan area.

Attractions in and Around Izmir

Izmir offers many attractions for tourists who want to explore its history, culture, and nature. Among the most famous landmarks are:

• İzmir Clock Tower (Turkish: İzmir Saat Kulesi): The symbol of the city, located on Konak Square. It was built in 1901 as a gift from German Emperor Wilhelm II to Ottoman Sultan Abdulhamid II to celebrate the 25th anniversary of his accession to the throne. The tower is decorated with four fountains and is 25 meters high. It is built in Ottoman style with elements of Moorish architecture.

• Agora: The ancient marketplace and public gathering place that was the center of Smyrna in Roman times. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD but was rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Marcus Aurelius. The agora is located in the Namazgah district and is open to the public as an open-air museum. Preserved structures include colonnades, arches, vaults, a basilica, and underground corridors.

• Asansör: A historical elevator that connects two parts of the city at different elevations above sea level. It was built in 1907 by Jewish merchant Nesim Levi as a public service for residents who had to overcome a steep hill between the Karataş and Halil Rıfat Paşa districts. The elevator is 51 meters high and offers a panoramic view of the İzmir Gulf. At the top of the elevator is a restaurant and café.

• Kültürpark: The largest park in the city, located in the Alsancak district. It was opened in 1936 as a place for recreation and cultural events. The park covers an area of 421 hectares and offers various attractions such as a zoo, amusement park, museums, theaters, a concert hall, sports facilities, fountains, and gardens. The park annually hosts the İzmir International Fair (İzmir Enternasyonal Fuarı), the oldest fair in Turkey.

• Kemeraltı: A traditional bazaar district in the city center, stretching from Konak Square to the historic fortress Kadifekale. It is one of the oldest and liveliest commercial centers in Turkey, where various goods such as clothing, jewelry, spices, souvenirs, antiques, and more are sold. Kemeraltı also has many historical mosques, churches, synagogues, and caravanserais.

• Ephesus (Turkish: Efes): An ancient city near Izmir, which was one of the most important cultural and religious centers of antiquity. Ephesus was known for its magnificent architecture, such as the Temple of Artemis (one of the Seven Wonders of the World), the Library of Celsus, or the Odeon theater; its rich history associated with figures such as the Apostle Paul or the philosopher Heraclitus. Ephesus is today one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the world and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Pergamon (Turkish: Bergama): An ancient city north of Izmir, which was the capital of the Hellenistic kingdom of Pergamon under the rule of the Attalid dynasty from the 3rd to the 2nd century BC. Pergamon was famous for its artistic and literary production, such as the statue of the Zeus Altar (now in Berlin), the Pergamon library (second largest after Alexandria), or parchment (paper made from animal skin). Pergamon was also a center of medical learning associated with the cult of Asclepius and the physician Galen. Pergamon is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

• Pamukkale (Turkish: Pamukkale): A stunning natural attraction southeast of Izmir, consisting of white travertine terraces filled with warm mineral water with healing properties. Pamukkale means "cotton castle" and is one of the most visited places in Turkey. Pamukkale is also part of the ancient city of Hierapolis (Turkish: Hierapolis), which was founded in the 2nd century BC to serve as a spa center for the sick and wealthy visitors. Hierapolis has many notable monuments such as an amphitheater, necropolis, or the Temple of Apollo. Pamukkale and Hierapolis are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Festivals and Celebrations in Izmir

Izmir is a vibrant and joyful city that celebrates various holidays and festivals throughout the year. Here are some of the most significant holidays and events:

• İzmir International Fair (Turkish: İzmir Enternasyonal Fuarı): The oldest and most prestigious fair in Turkey, held annually in September at Kültürpark. The fair showcases various sectors of industry, commerce, culture, and art from Turkey and abroad. The fair also offers a rich cultural program with concerts, theater performances, exhibitions, and other events.

• İzmir International Festival (Turkish: İzmir Uluslararası Festivali): A cultural festival held annually in June and July at various locations in the city. The festival brings world-renowned artists from the fields of music, dance, theater, and opera to Izmir. Venues include the ancient theater of Ephesus, Kadifekale fortress, Cumhuriyet Square, or Kültürpark.

• İzmir International Short Film Festival (Turkish: İzmir Kısa Film Festivali): A film festival held annually in November at various locations in the city. The festival presents the best short films from Turkey and abroad in various categories such as animation, documentary, experimental, or fiction. The festival also organizes workshops, seminars, panel discussions, and meetings with filmmakers.

• İzmir International Jazz Festival (Turkish: İzmir Caz Festivali): A music festival held annually in July at various locations in the city. The festival brings renowned jazz artists from Turkey and abroad to Izmir. Venues include historic buildings such as Bet Israel Synagogue, St. Polycarp Church, or the French Cultural Institute.

• İzmir International Puppet Festival (Turkish: İzmir Uluslararası Kukla Günleri): A puppet festival held annually in March at various locations in the city. The festival showcases the diversity and creativity of puppet art from Turkey and abroad. Venues include theaters, cultural centers, schools, or streets.

Local Cuisine in Izmir

Izmir is a city with a rich and diverse cuisine that reflects its history, culture, and geography. Typical ingredients include olive oil, vegetables, herbs, fish, seafood, cheese, yogurt, meat, and sweets. Some of the most famous dishes are:

• Boyoz: A pastry made of dough filled with various fillings such as cheese, spinach, potatoes, or meat. It is a traditional breakfast in Izmir, served with hard-boiled eggs and tea. Boyoz originates from Jewish cuisine and was brought to Izmir by Sephardic Jews from Spain.

• Kumru: A sandwich made of soft bread filled with kaşar cheese, sucuk sausage, smoked sausage sosis, and tomatoes. It is a popular snack in Izmir, sold at street stalls or bakeries. Kumru means dove in Turkish, and the sandwich got its name from the shape of the bread.

• İzmir köfte: A dish of meatballs mixed with bread, onion, parsley, and spices. The meatballs are fried in a pan and then baked in the oven with potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers. İzmir köfte is served with rice or bread and yogurt.

• Lokma: A sweet made of dough fried in oil and drizzled with sugar syrup. Lokma is served hot and sprinkled with nuts or sesame seeds. Lokma is a traditional dessert in Izmir, often given away for free at religious or charitable events as a gesture of gratitude or goodwill.

• Sakızlı muhallebi: A creamy pudding made of milk, rice flour, and mastic (a resin from the pistachio tree). Sakızlı muhallebi is served cold and garnished with nuts or fruit. Mastic gives the pudding a delicate aroma and flavor and comes from the island of Chios near Izmir.