Rovinj: The most beautiful town in Croatian Istria

Rovinj is one of the most beautiful and lively towns on the Croatian coast. It is the ideal place for a holiday full of history, culture, nature and gastronomy. Rovinj has a beautiful old town on a peninsula, crowned by the Baroque church of St. Euphemia. It also has beautiful beaches with clear water and picturesque islets in the surroundings. Rovinj is also a great base for exploring other interesting places in Istria such as Vrsar, Bale, Dvigrad or Poreč.

However, Rovinj is also one of the most expensive locations in Croatia, especially in the summer months when the crowds of tourists flock here. If you want to get to know Rovinj and don't insist on swimming, it's better to go here outside the tourist season, even in winter, when it's relatively lively and prices are lower.

Where Rovinj is located

Rovinj is located on the western coast of the Istrian peninsula, about 35 km from Pula and 100 km from Trieste. It is the largest town on the Rovinj-Vrsar coast and has about 15,000 inhabitants. Rovinj is surrounded by the sea on three sides and has 22 islets and reefs close to the coast. The largest and most famous of them is the island of Sveta Katarina, which is connected to the mainland by ferry.

The best way to reach Rovinj is by car on the A9 motorway from Pula or Trieste, or by bus from these and other cities. You can also take a train to Kanfanar and then a bus to Rovinj. The nearest airports are in Pula (40 km) and Trieste (140 km).

History of Rovinj

Rovinj has a rich and varied history that dates back to prehistoric times. Various peoples and civilisations have passed through the town and left their traces in its architecture, culture and language.

Rovinj until the end of the Middle Ages

Rovinj was founded as an Illyrian settlement in the 3rd century BC on an island separated from the mainland by a narrow strait. Later it was under the rule of the Romans, who called it Arupinium or Mons Rubineus. The Romans built fortifications, a temple, a theatre and an aqueduct. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Rovinj came under the rule of the Byzantines, who called it Ruginium or Ruvinium.

In the 6th century Rovinj was attacked and destroyed by the Langobards and Avars. In the 7th century, Slavs settled here and started using the Slavic name Ruvigno. In the 8th century Rovinj was subordinated to the Frankish empire of Charlemagne and became part of the Istrian March. In the 9th century Rovinj was invaded by the Saracens and the Normans. In the 10th century Rovinj became part of the Kingdom of Croatia and later the Kingdom of Hungary. In the 12th century Rovinj became a self-governing municipal town with its own statute and seal.  In the 13th century it became an ally of the Venetian Republic, which gave it protection from pirates and neighbouring feudal lords.

In the 14th century Rovinj was repeatedly attacked by the Pisan-Napoleonic League, which wanted to weaken Venice. In 1384, the town was conquered by King Sigismund of Luxembourg, but returned to Venetian rule a year later. In 1399 Rovinj was elevated to the status of a town with the right to elect its podestà (mayor) and council.

In the 15th century Rovinj was involved in the Venetian-Hungarian Wars and the Venetian-Turkish Wars, which threatened its security and prosperity. In 1463, it was attacked by Turkish pirates who captured many of its inhabitants as slaves. In 1499, the town was attacked by King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary, who burned and sacked it.

In the 16th century Rovinj became a refuge for the fleeing inhabitants from the surrounding villages that were destroyed by the Turks or by a plague epidemic. In 1599 a new wall with bastions and towers was built to better defend the town.

Rovinj from the 16th to the 19th century

Rovinj experienced a turbulent period in the 16th and 17th centuries, when it was often attacked by Turks and pirates who looted, burned the town and kidnapped the inhabitants as slaves. In 1579 and 1599, pirates penetrated the city walls and caused great damage. The coastal areas of Istria became populated with refugees from inland and from other countries affected by Turkish invasions or plague epidemics, and the population of Rovinj grew rapidly. Immigrants from northern Italy also arrived in Rovinj. In 1595 Rovinj had 2,800 inhabitants, in 1650 around 5,000, in 1741 it was already 8,000 inhabitants and in 1775 the number of inhabitants grew to almost 14,000. The rapid population growth influenced the architecture of the old town, which is characterised by tall houses built close together and narrow streets. One family lived in each room with a chimney.

Rovinj was an important port for merchant ships on their way from the Middle East to Venice, and Rovinj's sailors stood out for their skill and courage. They proved their bravery in the battles fought by Venice against the Turks in the 16th century and in the Kandyan War (Cretan War) in 1648. Rovinj pilots (peoti) escorted merchant ships through the northern Adriatic and the Venetian lagoon. Three of the twelve Rovinj war captains were awarded the Knight of St Mark's medal. Garzotto, the central hill of the old town, was named after one of these captains.

During the conflicts with the Turks, Venice helped build fortifications and city walls were built: the Porton del Ponte in 1563 and the Portizza (Sotto muro or Under the Wall) was rebuilt and strengthened in 1590. In 1650, when the danger of attacks was reduced, the city expanded into the areas behind the walls on the island and against it on the mainland near the slope where the Franciscan monastery stood. The strait and a small bridge became an obstacle to communication with the mainland, so the strait was filled in in 1763 and Rovinj became a town on the peninsula.

In the 17th and 18th centuries Rovinj was the most powerful shipping, fishing and maritime centre of Istria (fleet of sailing ships) and the most important source of white and grey stone. Since La Serenissima (the Venetian Republic) only ostensibly respected the town's autonomy, while in reality it exhausted the people with high taxes, strict regulations in trade and customs. Therefore Rovinj became the biggest nest of smugglers and organized many uprisings, followed by Venetian interventions in 1767, 1769, 1774 and 1780.

When Austria declared Rijeka and Trieste free ports in 1719, the situation in Rovinj, formerly one of the leading maritime towns on the western coast of Istria, deteriorated. The Grand Council of Venice abdicated on 12 May 1797; a democratic government was stabilised in Rovinj, governed by 18 representatives elected by the assembly. This self-government lasted during the brief Austrian rule until 1805 and then under the French-Napoleonic province from 1809 to 1813.

Rovinj from the 19th century to the present

Rovinj experienced the development of industry, transport and culture in the 19th century. In 1816 street lamps were introduced, in 1847 a steam mill was built for the production of pasta, in 1850 the Chamber of Commerce and Crafts for Istria was founded, and in 1853 a lighthouse was built on the island of St. John, from 1854 to 1865 - a theatre, in 1852 - a cement factory, in 1859 - the Great Pier, in 1872 - a tobacco factory, in 1878 - a wax factory, in 1882 - a sardine factory, in 1888 - a hospital, in 1891 - the Institute of Marine Biology. Rovinj was connected by a railway line; the first train arrived from Kanfanar in 1876. The port of Valdibora was enlarged, gas lamps were introduced in 1905 and a town telephone in 1906.

After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, Rovinj came under Italian rule, which lasted until the Italian surrender in September 1943, and the town remained under German occupation until the end of World War II. According to the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947, Rovinj was incorporated, along with other Istrian towns and islands, into Croatia as part of the Yugoslav state. In 1990, the struggle for independence and separation from communist Yugoslavia began. On 25 June 1991, the Republic of Croatia declared its sovereignty and independence.

Sights and attractions in Rovinj

Rovinj has a number of interesting that are worth visiting. Among the most notable are:

Old Town: The heart of Rovinj, full of narrow streets, stone houses, colourful facades and small squares. Here you will also find the 18th century Church of Saint Euphemia with its 60-metre high tower and relics of the town's patron saint. Other interesting churches are the 13th-century Church of St. Francis of Assisi with Gothic frescoes and the 15th-century Church of St. Thomas with Renaissance paintings.

Rovinj harbour: in the morning, the harbour on the north side of the peninsula is livelier when several fishing boats arrive. The harbour for smaller boats and yachts is on the south side of the old town and here you can rent a boat or kayak and go sightseeing in the surrounding islands or the Limfjord. You can also buy fresh fish or souvenirs at the market.

Batana Museum: a small museum dedicated to the traditional wooden batana boat, a symbol of Rovinj's fishing culture. The museum offers interactive exhibitions about the history, construction and use of the batana, as well as the life of the fishermen and their families.

Balbi's Arch: a 17th century stone arch with the coat of arms of the Venetian governors of Balbi at the top. The arch served as the main entrance to the old town from the harbour side.

Punta Corrente Park: a beautiful park lined with beaches on the southern edge of Rovinj. The park offers opportunities for hiking, cycling, climbing or relaxing under the trees.

The best beaches in Rovinj

Rovinj has several beaches to suit every taste and mood. Among the most popular are:

Baluota Beach: a rocky beach below the Church of St. Euphemia in the centre of the old town. The beach is popular with locals and offers stunning views of the sea and islands.

Mulini Beach: a pebble beach at the Monte Mulini Hotel near Punta Corrente Park. The beach has a blue flag and offers sunbeds, umbrellas, showers and bars.

Lone Beach: a pebble and sandy beach with a gradual entrance to the sea on the northern shore of Punta Corrente Park. Personally, I consider it the best beach in Rovinj, combining sand and pebbles, with the advantage of natural shade from trees. There are sunbeds, a bouncy castle for children and a kiosk. You can park in the car park (GPS 45.070229, 13.6421018) and if you arrive between 9-10am you can easily find a spot, later it's worse.

Zlatni Rt Beach: a beautiful natural beach on a golden cape in Punta Corrente Park. The beach offers several picturesque coves and beaches in a unique landscape. The beach is ideal for those who seek tranquillity and contact with nature.

Cuvi Beach: pebble and sandy beach at Punta Corrente Park. The beach is suitable for families with children and offers sun loungers, umbrellas, showers, a playground and a bar.

Polari Beach: a large pebble beach with a gently shelving beach at the Polari campsite in the south of Rovinj. The beach has a blue flag and offers sun loungers, umbrellas, showers, swimming pool, restaurants, kiosks, first aid, lifeguards, toilets, diving centre, water skiing, beach volleyball, bike and boat rental and other camping facilities. The disadvantage is that already very far from the old town center.

Beach at Camping Porton Biondi: newly renovated pebble beach with parking near the popular campsite with a beautiful view of Rovinj. It lacks trees and shade, so in the middle of summer you need to have an umbrella or a tent shelter.

Borik Beach: pebble beach with a gentle entrance to the sea near the Valdaliso Hotel on the northern outskirts of Rovinj. The beach offers sunbeds, umbrellas, showers, a diving centre, windsurfing school, tennis courts and beach volleyball. It is far from the town centre and you need a bike or a car.

Recommended restaurants in Rovinj

Rovinj is a paradise for lovers of good food and drink. There are countless restaurants here and especially in summer the offer is really great, although the amount of tourists can sometimes make it difficult to find a free place. Due to the popularity of the city with tourists, you can expect higher prices than in neighbouring Italy. Unfortunately, you'll find identical menus in many restaurants and the menu is often no different. In good restaurants you can enjoy traditional Istrian cuisine based on fish, seafood, olive oil, vegetables, herbs and wine. Typical dishes include buzara (steamed mussels or prawns with garlic and parsley), brodet (fish soup with rice), fuži (homemade pasta with beef or mushroom sauce), maneštra (vegetable soup with beans or corn), pršut (dried ham) and cheese. Popular desserts include fritule (a mixture of dough fried in oil and sprinkled with sugar), kroštule (thin slices of dough fried in oil and sprinkled with sugar) and rozata (caramel pudding).

The best restaurants include:

Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant: The restaurant is one of Croatia's top restaurants and is recommended by the Michelin Guide. It offers a modern interpretation of Istrian cuisine with local and seasonal ingredients.

Monte: another restaurant recommended by the Michelin Guide, which is also part of the prestigious JRE restaurant chain. It is located in the centre of the old town. The restaurant specialises in creative and innovative dishes with elements of molecular gastronomy.

Fish House Rovinj: friendly and affordable restaurant on the seafront. The restaurant focuses on fresh fish and seafood served on a plate or on the grill.

Tutto Bene: a cosy and quiet restaurant in the centre of town with stone walls, a terrace and a range of local dishes and desserts.

Santa Croce: a stylish restaurant in a historic palace in the old town. The restaurant has an elegant interior and terrace, serving sophisticated dishes of fish, meat and vegetables.

Tone: cosy tavern in a quiet street in the old town. The taverna has a rustic atmosphere and offers homemade dishes such as polpete (meatballs), pašticada (beef stew with sauce) or bakalar na bijelo (dried cod with potatoes).

Gelateria Italia: the best ice cream parlour in Rovinj. The gelato is made with natural ingredients and has a rich taste and creamy consistency. The menu includes classic and original flavours such as pistachio, tiramisu or fig.

Snack Bar Rio: this is a popular waterfront bar overlooking the harbour. The bar offers fast food such as sandwiches, salads, burgers or pancakes. The bar is also known for its wide selection of beers, cocktails and liquors.

Recommended accommodation in Rovinj

Rovinj has a wide range of accommodation options for different budgets and preferences. The most popular options include:

Campsites: Campsites are usually located near the beaches and have various facilities such as swimming pools, restaurants, sports facilities or animation programmes. The closest campsite to the centre is Porton Nature Hideouts, where mobilehome, caravan and tent pitches are also available. Other popular campsites are Polari, Veztar or the more distant Valalta.

Rovinj also has many apartments that you can rent from private owners or agencies. Apartments are usually equipped with a kitchen, bathroom, bedroom and living room. Apartments are suitable for those who want more privacy and comfort. 

Hotels: Rovinj also has several hotels of different categories and styles. Hotels offer comfortable rooms, breakfast, restaurants, bars, wellness and other services. The hotels are suitable for those who want to have everything under one roof and take advantage of the hotel's range of activities. Some of the best hotels include Adriatic Hotel by Maistra Collection, Lone Hotel by Maistra Collection or Eden Hotel by Maistra Collection. The absolute top of the range is the five-star Grand Park Hotel Rovinj by Maistra Collection.

Readers are advised that during the summer months, accommodation prices in Rovinj are extremely high and it is essential to book in advance. In the winter months, prices are lower and good deals can be found.

Most important holidays and celebrations in Rovinj

Rovinj is also a town full of joy and fun. Throughout the year there are various festivals and celebrations that attract locals and visitors alike. Among the most important are:

Grisia: a traditional art festival held every second Sunday in August. The festival transforms the main street of the old town into an open-air gallery where the works of more than 200 artists from different countries are presented.

Noćna regata: a night sailing regatta held every year at the end of August. The regatta starts in Rovinj harbour and continues around the islands of Sveta Katarina and Sveta Andrija. The regatta is accompanied by a musical programme and fireworks.

Rovinjska noć: it is a festive night that takes place every year at the end of August. The night is full of music, dancing, food and drink on the waterfront and in the streets of the old town. The night culminates in a spectacular fireworks display over the sea.

Dani svetog Eufemije: these are the days of Saint Euphemia, the patron saint of the city, which take place every year from 14 to 16 September. The days include religious services, processions with relics of Saint Euphemia by sea and land, cultural and sporting events and markets with local produce.

Dani anchovies: sardine days, held every year at the end of June. The days celebrate the traditional fisherman's speciality of grilled sardines with olive oil and garlic. The days offer tastings of sardines and other fish and seafood, a music programme and fishing competitions.

Other places of interest around Rovinj

Rovinj is also a great starting point for exploring other beautiful and interesting places in Istria. We pick a few places for inspiration:

Vrsar: a picturesque town on the coast about 10 km north of Rovinj. Vrsar has an old town with stone houses and churches, a harbour with fishing boats and yachts and 18 islands in the surroundings. Vrsar is also known as the place where the famous lover Giacomo Casanova stayed.

Bale: a small inland town about 15 km southeast of Rovinj. Bale has a medieval core with walls, palaces and churches. Bale is also known for its cultural scene and festivals such as Jazz in the Lapidarium or the Last Minute Open Jazz Festival.

Dvigrad: an abandoned town on a hill about 20 km east of Rovinj. Dvigrad was founded in the 9th century and was abandoned in the 17th century due to plague and war. Today Dvigrad is a well-preserved ruin with the remains of a castle, church, houses and a cemetery.

Poreč: one of the most popular and oldest towns on the Istrian coast about 35 km north of Rovinj. Poreč has a rich history dating back to Roman times and is famous for its 6th century Euphrasius Basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Poreč also has a lively seafront with restaurants, bars and shops.

Rovinj is the pearl of Croatian Istria, offering a wonderful combination of history, culture, nature and gastronomy. It is the ideal place for a holiday full of experiences and relaxation. Rovinj is also a great starting point for exploring other beautiful and interesting places in Istria. Rovinj is simply a town you have to see.